It is with great excitement that we introduce this first installment of our newsletter, A New Leaf. We look forward to sharing information and resources about sustainable tree and plant health care practices with you through this newsletter. This “low carbon footprint” online portal will be introduced in a new installment with each coming season. In the interest of turning over a new leaf, upholding proper environmental practices, fostering renewable resources in the local green space and assisting in the care of your sustainable landscape, we hope to help shed light on the proper practice of arboriculture through the articles published in this newsletter for many years to come.

Sincerely,

Al Romero
Founder of Timber Tender

ABOVE: A member of the Timber Tender team ascends into the canopy of an ailing tree for first-hand inspection of a dying leader limb.
PHOTO: SETH BUTLER

Best Cultural Practices for Sustaining Your Landscape
The landscape surrounding your home comprises a substantial part of your total property value, likely one of the greatest financial investments you will ever make. Good landscaping not only provides a sense of tranquility, beauty, and seclusion in a place where family and friends can gather in enjoyment of the great outdoors and be entertained in the midst of your home, but also contributes a great amount to the value of your property. Many homeowners choose to hire out professionals to care for their landscapes and many more do the work for themselves. It is both the doing it yourself part and sometimes even the “professionals” part which bring the most questions to the forefront in terms of best cultural practices, chiefly, which practices of care are sustainable and which are not.

Proper Pruning for Your Shrubs and Trees
Many homeowners choose to do their own pruning, whether it be shrubs or trees. Some are well informed as to good pruning practices but many are not. The following are some explanations of improper practices that are too often employed, not only by the layman but also by some so- called “professionals”.

First of all, the “sculptural” pruning of deciduous shrubs using improper tools like hedge shears to create the generic look of rounded spheres for aesthetic purposes is not a proper pruning technique (although the poor shrubs seem to withstand it somehow). This method of pruning ends up creating a thin veneer of growth on the outside of the shrub which in time will lead to a dense, entwined thicket of dead and live limbs, in turn, aiding in the possible onset of insect and/or disease problems which may finally compromise the shrub’s natural immune system. Furthermore, this type of pruning will likely remove all flowering buds or young fruit before they have the chance to develop.

ABOVE: A cross section of a tree which was compromised by decay caused by “Topping” for sculptural purposes.
PHOTO: Courtesy of University of Florida Department of Environmental Horticulture

In the proper pruning of deciduous shrubs, the first order of business is to selectively “clean house” by removing dead, damaged and diseased growth, then remove unwanted “sucker growth” from the base of the shrub. “Suckers” are new growth which come from below the soil surface or where the graft union takes place and will drain energy from the main growth of the shrub. In terms of aesthetic quality, all deciduous shrub species develop their own structure and should be pruned to carefully exemplify the character of that particular shrub instead of forced into a generic form. Excessive topping or “sculpture” of your trees and shrubs will likely deter their natural and healthy growth patterns.

Pruning times are determined by when flowering occurs for each type of shrub. A general rule of thumb is that shrubs with flowers that form on old wood (older growth) should be pruned after bloom and shrubs that flower on new wood (newest seasonal growth) can be pruned at any time. The optimal time to prune each shrub varies by the species. Whatever pruning measures you decide to make, know that your work will have a hand in effecting the future structure and health of the shrub for years to come.

The layman can also easily do small tree pruning as long as certain basic principles of pruning are adhered to: there are many written publications available from your local college extension service or the International Society of Arboriculture, some are included in the links below. As to large tree pruning, that is the providence of the trained professional arborist, who can safely and efficiently accomplish nearly any task from the first-hand perspective of the tree canopy.

ABOVE: An example of decay caused by a “Flush” pruning cut which scarred the cambium of the tree, opening the main structure to disease.
PHOTO: Courtesy of University of Florida Department of Environmental Horticulture

Again, I cannot stress enough that what you decide to do to your tree will be with you for a long time to come and improper pruning can do long term damage. Think twice before you pick up that hand saw, clippers or sheers and make sure you are informed about the decisions you will be making for the long-term benefit of your landscape. When making the decision to purchase and install new shrubs or trees, ask what the mature size and shape will be, when the shrub is due to flower and when the proper season to prune is. This information will determine where the shrub should be planted in relation to other plant material and “hardscape” such as walkways and buildings and will help ensure your landscape is as pleasing and sustainable as possible.

Please see the following links for more information:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/pruning/pruning.html
http://www.treehelp.com/howto/howto-prune-a-tree.asp
http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/pruning_young.aspx
http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/pruning_mature.aspx

Mulch Madness
Too much of a good thing can become a problem, people have been saying that for years and there is definitely some wisdom to the adage. Simply put, applying too much mulch, what ever the medium is, can become a detrimental problem for your landscape and induce excessive moisture, rot, fungus and cut off the below-ground circulation oxygen. Mulch, whether organic or inorganic in makeup, should not be more spread more than 3” to 4” thick and never piled up against the base of the tree. Mulch made of bark or any other organic source will break-down over time and the grade around the root area will build up. As more mulch is applied to uphold the look of the landscape, this creates an unhealthy environment for any root system underneath.

ABOVE: An example of proper mulch application.
PHOTO: Courtesy of Tonie Keslick

Usually people desire the newly mulched look, the only issue here is that a grade adjustment should be made by removing the old decomposed layer of mulch before adding any new bark mulch to maintain a proper “breathing depth” for the root systems. It is also possible in some situations to refresh the mulch, simply by running a rake over the surface to produce an appearance of new mulch.

Unfortunately, mulch madness pervades the landscape with many landscapers over-mulching for aesthetic purposes. As bark mulch is continually layered and piled against tree trunks, this will ultimately lead to the suffocation of any root system beneath, as well as the onset of fungal diseases and finally, an unhealthy change in the chemistry of the soil. Stop the mulch madness, take charge and survey your property and ask questions: How much mulch is applied, where, when and why?

Please see the following links for more information on mulching practice:
http://www.extension.psu.edu/cnregion/hort/newsletter/hort_may02.htm
http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/mulching.aspx
http://treesforyou.org/Planting/Miscellaneous/mulching_trees.htm

Placement and Compatibility of Trees and Shrubs in Your Landscape
Over the years, many clients have requested our team to of make a specific tree or shrub smaller. In many instances we can mitigate the situation to a point where best pruning practices will allow a limited amount of reduction, something that is in the best interest of the tree at hand and ultimately for the benefit of the client. In some cases, the crown reduction of a tree or shrub will simply not work for a given situation. To achieve the desired effect, we are required to prescribe total removal of the plant material due to unhealthy overcrowding of other plants and structures.

These issues stem always from improper landscape design, planning and plant choice. It is all too easy to over plant your landscape initially to give it that established look. For example, let’s say we bookend the corners of a new development home with Dark American Arborvitae (Thuja nigra) and front and center between the walkway to the front entrance plant various deciduous shrubs along with a few crabapple trees. Now these plants are small, the arborvitae are let’s say 5’ in height and are planted within four feet of the corner of the house. When initially designed and planted, things are looking good, but what is going to take place down the road in ten years?

Dark American Arborvitae will grow to an ultimate size of 30’ in height and about 10’ to 12’ wide. The arborvitae will be growing into the eves of the house and smother the building and view from the corner window. My first reaction in these scenarios is always to advise removal and start over again, as this will ultimately reduce the costs to the homeowner over time and the investment in proper planning and landscape design will pay dividends for years to come as opposed to managing a poorly planned landscape. Plants and trees can be magnificent if allowed their proper space for future growth. Placement and compatibility in the urban landscape should always be taken into account when considering installation or developing your property.

Please see the following links for more information:
http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/topping.aspx
http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/avoiding_conflicts.aspx
http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_values.aspx
http://treesforyou.org/Selection/selection.htm

Fertilizer Burn
Properly prescribed, fertilization can be a great benefit to tree health. However, with too much of a good thing, applications applied on a yearly basis using high nitrogen fertilizers can have detrimental effects on your tree’s health and the overall soil composition of the site. Studies have revealed the possibility that the population of beneficial root fungus (Mycorrhizae [which increase the tree’s absorbing capacity]) will decrease with over-fertilization. Other effects of over-fertilization include lowered resistance to some fungal pathogens, insect damage, and a generally weakened immune system.

Here are some key concepts regarding fertilization process:

• Fertilizer is sometimes referred to as “tree food” but this is an incorrect concept. The real food for trees is created by a combination of carbon dioxide, water and sunlight, which in the process of photosynthesis are converted to simple sugars and carbohydrates, effectively “tree food”.
• Fertilizer is much more like a vitamin and provides essential elements comprised of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that are naturally found in the chemical makeup of the soil on different levels. The amounts of these elements that are required for healthy tree growth are quite small considering the percentage of water, carbon dioxide and sunlight that are needed for proper tree health. Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other elements contained in most fertilizer are, however, necessary for the cell division and enzyme processes which allow for photosynthesis and growth to proceed.
• Trees absorb fertilizer in small amounts from soil and water, through the roots in the process of osmosis. These elements are then recycled by the process of decay. Phosphorus and Potassium are mineral elements that are also released by leaching natural minerals in the soil. Nitrogen is a gas, naturally found in the air and can be ‘fixed’ or converted in a usable soluble form by the action of some microorganisms. Nitrogen can also be fixed by the action of lightning and washed to earth dissolved in rainwater.
• Fertilization is required, more or less, depending on the traits of soil drainage and aeration, which differ all over. Heavy soils are much better at retaining fertilizer, so smaller amounts are needed and vice versa; with lighter soils, generally a higher/more frequent prescription of fertilization is required.

The first order in proper fertilization is to take appropriate soil samples to be tested for physical and chemical make-up. This information is then used to make a proper site-specific diagnosis after looking into all other options. If there is poor soil fertility, there may be other viable methods to improve soil structure and fertility that will be more sustainable. If the trees in question are in decline, a total site analysis will be in order to determine what steps are to be taken. Recommendations for tree fertilization should always be taken with a careful analysis of site, tree species, age and health of the specimen considered for treatment. Keep in mind that there may be other solutions to the problems with your trees and shrubs.

Please see the following links for more information:
http://www.umassgreeninfo.org/fact_sheets/plant_culture/fert_trees_shrubs.htm
http://www.cartage.org.lb/…/commonabiotic.htm

Ornamental Crab Apple Trees (The Good the Bad and the Ugly)
Here in the North Country, one of the most commonly planted varieties of low growth tree is the flowering crabapple. It is a proven winner come springtime and a welcomed sight after the long New England winter with it’s fresh springtime blossoms. There are approximately 700 types of crabapple trees commonly planted in the temperate regions of North America, Europe and Asia. Crabapple trees come in many various shapes and sizes, from irregular branching to upright growth habit to low-mounded growth habit to “weeping” form. Variety size ranges from dwarf 8’x8’ to 15’x 25’. Flower colors range from white to pink to shades that graduate in deep red, leaves and fruit also offer varied color and size arrangements. There are many choices when it comes to choosing the right crabapple tree for the right location.When choosing your tree, consider the final shape, size for location of planting, color of bloom, color and size of fruit and most importantly disease resistance.

ABOVE: An example of a properly pruned crabapple, allowing for natural tree form.
PHOTO: Al Romero

Beyond your preliminary choices here, know that pruning of ornamental crabapple trees is one of the most misunderstood practices applied in the field of landscaping. There is plenty of living evidence you can see just by taking a drive through any local neighborhood, or shopping area this spring. The real problem here is that crabapple trees bloom in springtime. Pruning and shaping during springtime, this will reduce the available bloom, cause the tree to sprout erratically during the summer months, and ultimately produce something of an unnatural form regardless of the “sculptural” attempts.

ABOVE: An example of im-proper “sculptural” pruning which leads to erratic growth pattern.
PHOTO: Al Romero

Please see the following links for more information:

http://umassgreeninfo.org/fact_sheets/plant_culture/apples.pdf
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/pruning/pruning.html
http://www.treehelp.com/howto/howto-prune-a-tree.asp

Proper tree planting
The choice to plant a tree is a direct act of stewardship for your land and, done correctly, will keep giving back through the next generation and beyond. Every tree you plant properly will help sustain the green space on your property for generations, adding aesthetic value and contributing to the immediate environment, shelter from wind, shade, fresh air and homes for the local bird-life and fauna.

ABOVE: Diagram illustrating proper planting procedure for a tree or shrub.
ARTWORK: Courtesy UMass Extension for Landscape, Nursery & Urban Forestry

In preparation for tree planting, you should first choose the best tree for your needs and environment. This may include many different elements from a deciduous shade tree to assist with energy efficiency of your summer home to a tree with a spring bloom. Once your tree is chosen, and planting is in order, the first step is to uncover a small portion of the burlap around the trunk of the tree, pull back the burlap to allow you room to work freely and inspect the root collar. Once the root collar has been located this is where the first order of roots will be. In many instances the first order of roots will be covered with soil and this will indicate the wrong depth to set the tree in the hole. We have found in many cases that the root collar has been buried up to 6” over the top of the root ball. You should always do this pre-planting check to get the depth of the hole correct or else the future growth of the tree may be compromised if it is buried too deeply.

Upon inspection of the root collar to determine proper planting depth, you should dig a hole at least twice the diameter of the root ball (if the soil is compacted three times the diameter of the root ball). The root collar and top of root ball should be at grade (level with the surrounding landscape) and seated in well-drained soil. If the soil has poor drainage, the root collar and top of the root ball should be 4” above grade. The sides of the hole should gently slope up like a large salad bowl to promote favorable root formation and unobstructed growth toward the sides of the root ball.

Nowadays the root balls of most pre-packaged trees are wrapped in burlap with a wire basket holding the package together. If it is possible, remove the wire basket entirely from the root ball. If that is not possible due to root formation, remove at least the top half of the wire basket, along with the burlap, this can be done by the edge of the planting hole or near the location where the tree will be planted. The next step is to place the tree, then back fill the planting hole with the same soil that came from the hole, do not add any soil amendments while backfilling. Once the new tree is firmly seated in the ground, Lightly tamp the soil and water around the perimeter of the tree, irrigating the first order of roots and all around the root ball. If staking is necessary to keep the tree’s growth straight, use one or two stakes with flexible ties, and leave these in place for no longer than one year. Add two to four inches of mulch over the root ball and backfill area; do not pile mulch against base of tree. Congratulations you have just made a worthy investment in the future!

We hope you enjoyed reading A New Leaf and look forward to seeing you here again soon. You can sign-up to receive email updates about A New Leaf by clicking here!